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6: Orton to Kirkby Stephen (12¼ miles)

Friday 20th October 2006

Slightly hung over, but a nice breakfast. Set off at 9.25, overcast but mainly dry. Mostly road walking to Sunbiggin then followed the direct route via Sunbiggin Tarn as suggested by the landlady (now the generally accepted route anyway). Quite boggy but mostly level and easy walking with views to the Howgills. At Smardale we decided to follow the disused railway along Smardale Gill, including a high viaduct. Pleasant and easy (though a bit drizzly); Smardale Gill is an NNR, good for butterflies and flora. We left the railway at Smardale, though we could have stayed on it almost to Sandwath if we'd known. Then followed some easy road walking with fine views in improving weather to Mallerstang, Nine Standards Rigg and northwards towards Cross Fell, then field paths to Kirkby. Along the way a strange moment occurred when the shepherd got his dog to drive a flock of sheep straight towards us (they parted and we were briefly surrounded by sheep on all sides). We arrived at Kirkby shortly after 1pm.

Andy got his rucksack adjusted and I bought some extra walking socks in Eden Outdoor - helpful chap. Kirkby Stephen seems to be a town with no decent beer - the Black Bull (where we were staying) wasn't open so we had a very average pint of Black Sheep in the Black Bull, then an even worse pint of Hobgoblin in the Pennine Hotel, so bad that neither of us finished it. The Cumberland in the White Lion was drinkable but not great. Slightly better in the Black Bull in the evening, where we also had dinner (chicken curry again). Friday night telly then to bed. I went downstairs barefoot at one point into the crowded bar (and heard someone laughingly suggest that I was a sleepwalker). Comfortable B&B but quite dated decor.

Weather: Overcast, occasionally drizzly, improving later. Walk: 6/10 Mood: 8/10 Cumulative distance: 78¼ miles

The Howgills from west of Orton