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4: Patterdale to Shap (16 miles)

Wednesday 18th October 2006

Set off in the clear but soon into the cloud. A drag up to the aptly-named Boredale Hause then on past Angle Tarn, which we hardly saw in the murk (and we went mildly off-course near Satura Crag, but soon realised and adjusted). Dramatically, though, as we reached the high point of the day (just after we saw a Snow Bunting) the clouds lifted to give great views of High Street, the Hayeswater valley and the head of Haweswater. We saw more Red Deer (distantly) near Kidsty Pike (having heard them in the mist earlier). Steep uncomfortable descent to Haweswater, where we had lunch. Then followed a tiresome trudge along Haweswater - the path was narrow, brackeny, stony and frustratingly undulating, with ugly concrete fence-posts along parts of it. The dam is in sight for miles and never seems to get any closer. The lads we met at Patterdale also didn't seem to be enjoying it either. Very glad to reach Burnbanks and catch up with Andy.

Pleasant fieldwalking to Shap Abbey, but largely too tired to appreciate it. The last mile was on roads to Shap, then we faced a final trudge along the A6 to our accommodation (the Greyhound Inn), where we sat down stiffly for an exhausted pint. Good dinner (black pudding followed by lamb) then watched telly till 10. Very footsore and tired.

Weather: Low cloud in the morning, suddenly brighter at lunchtime and thereafter. Walk: 6/10 Mood: 5/10 Cumulative distance: 59 miles

Crossing Goldrill Beck with low cloud looming